Ring of Kerry Road Trip: Your Ultimate Guide to Ireland’s Most Scenic Adventure

There’s something magical about the moment you first set out on the Ring of Kerry. As someone who has driven this route countless times over the years and taken many a holiday in Kerry Ireland, I still get that same flutter of excitement when I round the first bend out of Killarney and the mountains loom ahead. The Ring of Kerry isn’t just another scenic drive – it’s Ireland’s soul wrapped in 179 kilometers of coastal beauty, ancient history, and warm Irish welcomes.

I remember my first time tackling this iconic route, armed with nothing but a basic map and boundless enthusiasm. Now, after dozens of trips in all seasons, I’m sharing everything I’ve learned about making the most of this magnificent journey. From hidden caves that rarely make the guidebooks to the best times to visit popular spots without the crowds, this guide combines practical advice with personal insights to help you create your own unforgettable Ring of Kerry experience.

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Why Trust This Guide?

Every restaurant recommendation, hidden viewpoint, and timing tip in this guide comes from personal experience. I’ve tested these routes in sunshine and rain, peak season and quiet winters, and stayed in accommodations across every budget range. This isn’t just a collection of tourist spots – it’s a carefully curated journey based on real experiences and local knowledge.

Essential Planning: Before You Go

When to Visit
Peak Season (June-August):
Longest daylight hours and warmest weather, but expect crowds and higher prices. Book accommodations at least 6 months ahead.

Shoulder Season (April-May, September-October):
My personal favorite time to visit. Fewer tourists, reasonable weather, and better prices. Spring brings wildflowers, while autumn offers spectacular colors.

Off-Season (November-March):
Quietest period with the most authentic local experience. Some attractions have limited hours, but the dramatic winter scenery and cozy pub atmosphere make up for it.

Ring of Kerry Map

How Long to Stay

While you could technically drive the Ring of Kerry itinerary one day, don’t. I’ve seen too many rushed tourists missing the best parts. Here’s what I recommend:

Minimum: 2 full days
Ideal: 3-4 days
Perfect: 5-7 days to include detailed exploration and side trips

Getting There – From Dublin:
Drive: 4-4.5 hours via M7/N21 (330km)
Train: 3.5 hours from Dublin Heuston to Killarney
Flying: 1 hour to Kerry Airport + 30-minute transfer

Pro Tip: If driving from Dublin, break your journey at the Rock of Cashel or medieval Kilkenny. These stops transform a long drive into part of the adventure.

The Perfect Ring of Kerry Route which way to drive

Ring of Kerry driving tips

Ring of Kerry to Killarney: Before we dive into the specifics, let’s address the most common question: which direction should you drive? Always go clockwise from Killarney. I learned this the hard way after once getting stuck behind tour buses for hours. Tour buses must go counterclockwise, so going clockwise helps you avoid them and gives you better views of the coast from the driver’s side.

How long is the Ring of Kerry? The Ring of Kerry circuit measures 179km (111 miles) in length and the route takes around 3.5 hours to drive around without stopping.

However having said that others recommend following behind the tour buses so you don’t have to pull over when going in the other direction on the terribly narrow roads.

Day-by-Day Route Guide

Day 1: Killarney and the National Park

Morning: Start in Killarney

Begin your journey in the bustling town of Killarney. I always recommend starting early – around 8:30 AM – to beat the tour buses. Start with:

Ross Castle (opens 9:00 AM): This 15th-century tower house sits majestically on the edge of Lough Leane. The morning mist often creates an ethereal atmosphere, and if you’re lucky, you might spot white-tailed eagles soaring overhead. The guided tour reveals fascinating details about medieval Irish defensive architecture and daily life.

Muckross House and Gardens: This Victorian mansion offers a glimpse into 19th-century aristocratic life. The gardens are spectacular year-round, but spring brings an explosion of color from rare rhododendrons and azaleas. Don’t miss the traditional farms at the rear of the property, where you can watch demonstrations of butter making and traditional crafts.

Torc Waterfall: This 20-meter cascade is particularly impressive after rainfall. Take the wooden steps up the side for a secret viewpoint of the lakes that most tourists miss. Early morning visits often reward you with rainbows in the spray.

Afternoon: The Lakes

Ladies View: Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting made this spot famous, and it’s easy to see why. The panoramic vista of the lakes and mountains is breathtaking, especially in late afternoon light when the sun illuminates the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks.

Moll’s Gap: This mountain pass offers dramatic views of the Black Valley. The twisted rock formations here were created by moving glaciers during the last ice age. The café at the top serves excellent homemade scones with a view.

Evening: Kenmare

Known as the ‘Jewel in the Ring’, Kenmare’s colorful streets are lined with award-winning restaurants and traditional craft shops. The town’s stone circle, often overlooked by visitors, is one of the largest in southwest Ireland.

Day 2: The Southern Circuit

Morning: Sneem to Waterville

Sneem: Known as ‘The Knot’ in Irish, this village is split into two distinct squares by the Sneem River. The North Square features a remarkable collection of public art, including a pyramid sculpture inspired by local folklore. Stop at O’Neill’s The Way the Fairies Went café for their famous apple pie and watch the world go by from their riverside terrace.

Staigue Stone Fort: This Iron Age fort is one of Ireland’s largest and best-preserved ring forts. The walls stand up to 5.5 meters high and contain hidden stairways within their thickness. Visit early to have this ancient site to yourself and try to spot the mysterious astronomical alignments in its construction.

Derrynane House and Beach: Former home of Daniel O’Connell, Ireland’s Great Liberator. The house museum contains fascinating artifacts, but the real treasure is the private beach behind the property. Walk through the subtropical gardens filled with rare plants that thrive in Kerry’s mild climate before emerging onto one of Ireland’s most beautiful stretches of sand.

Waterville: Charlie Chaplin’s favorite holiday spot offers spectacular views across Ballinskelligs Bay. The statue of Chaplin along the promenade makes for a perfect photo op, while the Butler Arms Hotel still displays memorabilia from his stays. Time your visit for sunset when the bay turns golden.

Afternoon: The Skellig Ring

Kerry Cliffs: Rising 300 meters above the Atlantic, these cliffs offer the best views of the Skellig Islands. On clear days, you can see the ancient monastery on Skellig Michael. Visit during high tide when the waves crash most dramatically against the rocks.

Portmagee: This colorful fishing village was the base for the Star Wars film crews. The Bridge Bar not only serves excellent seafood but also houses a small exhibition of behind-the-scenes photos from the filming. Try their famous locally-caught crab claws.

Valentia Island: Connected to the mainland by bridge, this island is a geological wonder. The Tetrapod Trackway features 385-million-year-old footprints, marking one of the earliest examples of vertebrate life moving from sea to land. The Geokaun Mountain viewpoint offers panoramic views of the entire peninsula.

Day 3: The Northern Return

Morning: Cahersiveen Area

Cahergall Stone Fort: This restored ring fort features internal stairs built into its 4-meter-thick walls. Climb to the top for views over the surrounding countryside. The fort’s perfect circular design demonstrates the advanced engineering skills of ancient Irish builders.

Ballycarbery Castle: This ivy-covered 16th-century castle looks like something from a fairy tale. Although you can’t enter the ruins, the exterior with its castellated top and mysterious doorways makes for stunning photographs, especially in morning light.

Valentia Island Lighthouse: The 19th-century lighthouse offers guided tours explaining its vital role in maritime history. The fog signal station still contains its original machinery, and the views from the lighthouse platform stretch across the Atlantic to the Blasket Islands.

Afternoon: Glenbeigh and Killorglin

Rossbeigh Beach: A 6km stretch of golden sand backed by dunes. Popular with horseback riders, the beach offers views across to the Dingle Peninsula. Look for dolphins in the bay, especially during summer months.

Mountain Stage: One of the Ring’s most dramatic viewpoints, where the road clings to the mountainside above the Wild Atlantic Way. Pull into the lay-by to watch waves crash against the rocks below and spot distant Kerry cows grazing on seemingly impossible slopes.

Killorglin: Home to Ireland’s oldest festival, Puck Fair, where a wild mountain goat is crowned king for three days. Even outside festival time, the town’s traditional pubs offer excellent music sessions. Stop at Nick’s Restaurant for their famous seafood chowder made with local catch.

Hidden Gems You Won’t Find in Most Guides

The Kerry Bog Village Museum: This fascinating open-air museum between Glenbeigh and Killorglin offers a glimpse into 18th-century rural Irish life. The preserved thatched cottages contain original artifacts, and you can meet Kerry Bog Ponies, an ancient Irish breed once nearly extinct. Don’t miss the turf-cutting demonstration and traditional poitín making display.

The Red Fox Inn: Home of the original Irish Coffee in Kerry, this traditional pub sits beside the Kerry Bog Village. Their secret recipe Irish Coffee is made with locally-sourced whiskey and fresh cream from Kerry cows. The interior feels unchanged since the 1800s, with open turf fires and walls covered in historical photographs.

The Old Barracks in Cahersiveen: This peculiar Gothic-style building was mistakenly shipped to Cahersiveen when it was meant for India during British rule. Now housing a fascinating heritage center, it tells the story of the Fenian Rising and local maritime history. The building’s white limestone exterior stands in stark contrast to typical Irish architecture.

St. Finian’s Bay (The Glen): Home to Skelligs Chocolate Factory, where you can watch artisan chocolatiers at work and sample their creations. The bay itself is a hidden surfing spot with dramatic views of the Skellig Islands. Local tip: Try their hot chocolate made with 70% cocoa while watching winter storms roll in.

Kells Gardens: Often overlooked for the more famous Muckross Gardens, this 19th-century garden hosts an incredible collection of Southern Hemisphere plants. The prehistoric tree ferns here are over 600 years old, and the bamboo grove is the largest in Ireland. Look for the hidden fairy garden that delights both children and adults.

Valentia Island Slate Quarry: This working quarry provided slate for Paris Opera House and London’s Houses of Parliament. The viewing point offers spectacular views across the bay, and you can still see the old railway tracks used to transport slate to waiting ships. Sometimes you can find loose pieces of slate with fossilized tetrapod tracks.

Caherdaniel Fort: While everyone visits Staigue Fort, this lesser-known ring fort offers equally impressive views with fraction of the visitors. The fort’s strategic position offers panoramic views of Derrynane Bay, and you’ll often have the place entirely to yourself. Look for the hidden chamber in the wall, typically missed by casual visitors.

O’Neill’s The Point Seafood Bar: Hidden at the end of the Rossbeigh peninsula, this local secret serves some of the freshest seafood on the Ring. Their crab claws are caught that morning, and the chowder recipe is a closely guarded family secret. The outdoor seating area offers views across to Inch Beach on the Dingle Peninsula.

Practical Information: Making Your Journey Smooth

Where to Stay

After countless trips around the Ring, I’ve found the best strategy is to book multiple bases rather than moving each night. Here are my tried-and-tested recommendations:

Fancy a Castle stay in Killarney then you need to book the Ballyseede Castle Hotel which comes with a ghost and a couple of Irish wolfhounds. Located near Tralee this gorgeous hotel Castle will knock your socks off.

BOOK BALLYSEEDE CASTLE NOW

Tatler Jack’s – BnB Killarney

Located in Killarney, Tatler Jack offers accommodation with free WiFi and flat-screen TV, as well as a restaurant and a bar. The bed and breakfast offers a continental or Full English/Irish breakfast.

BOOK TATLER JACK’S BNB NOW

Rookery Mews – Self Catering accommodation in Killarney

Rookery Mews Apartments is about a 20-minute walk from Killarney with free parking, wifi and a great little kitchen and there are onsite receptions. 

The following accommodations are all centrally located in Killarney some have breakfast included, free wifi and parking but check the accommodation before you book to see what is on offer.

Hostels in Killarney that are centrally located
Railway Hostel

The Black Sheep Hostel

Budget Hotel

Harmony Inn – Glena House   

Simple rooms with en suite bathrooms have traditional furnishings. They include tea and coffee making facilities, satellite TV, and free WiFi. Free Off-street parking is included. Pet-Friendly all pets are welcome once they have their own bedding.

A bit of luxury

Killarney Plaza Hotel

The 4-star Killarney Plaza Hotel overlooks Killarney National Park. It features a gourmet restaurant, an indoor pool and spa and free parking. St Mary’s Cathedral is a 5-minute walk away.

Killarney Royal Hotel – In the heart of the city, The Killarney Royal Hotel is 200 m from Killarney Train Station. This boutique hotel has luxurious rooms, a fine dining restaurant and free Wi-Fi.

Dining Highlights

Must-Try Local Specialties:

Fresh Atlantic seafood chowder
Kerry lamb stew
Skellig chocolate
Local farmhouse cheeses
Traditional soda bread

My Favorite Food Stops:

Killarney:
Bricín: Best boxty in Ireland
Celtic Whiskey Bar: Exceptional food and whiskey pairings

Kenmare:
No.35: Fine dining without pretense
Mulcahy’s: Wild Atlantic Way cuisine

Waterville:
An Corcan: Fresh catch of the day
The Fisherman’s Bar: Local specialty dishes

Portmagee:
The Bridge Bar: Best seafood platter
The Moorings: Traditional Irish music and food

Essential Driving Tips

Vehicle Choice:

Rent a compact or mid-size car
Automatic transmission recommended for less experienced left-side drivers
Book well in advance for automatic options

Money-Saving Tips:

Book accommodation 3-6 months ahead
Consider shoulder season travel (April-May or September-October)
Buy a Heritage Card if visiting multiple historic sites
Pack picnic supplies for lunch stops
Fill up on fuel in larger towns

Photography Tips:

Golden hour is magical at Kerry Cliffs
Morning light best for Killarney Lakes
Cloudy days often better for dramatic landscapes
Keep lens cleaning supplies handy (sea spray)

Seasonal Activities and Special Experiences

Spring (March-May):
Wildlife watching: Perfect for bird spotting
Photography: Wildflowers and newborn lambs
Walking: Comfortable temperatures for hiking
Advantage: Longer daylight hours without summer crowds

Summer (June-August):
Water activities: Swimming, kayaking, boat tours
Skellig Michael visits: Most reliable weather
Festivals: Local events and traditional music
Note: Book everything well in advance

Autumn (September-October):
Photography: Rich autumn colors
Food festivals: Harvest celebrations
Walking: Clear, crisp days
Advantage: Summer crowds gone but attractions still open

Winter (November-February):
Dark Sky Reserve stargazing: Clearest night skies
Cozy pub experiences: Traditional music sessions
Storm watching: Dramatic coastal scenes
Advantage: Most authentic local experience

Special Experiences Worth Planning For:

Dark Sky Reserve:

The Kerry International Dark Sky Reserve is one of only three Gold Tier reserves in Europe. On a clear night, the Milky Way stretches across the sky like a silver ribbon. Book a guided stargazing session in Ballinskelligs for the full experience.

Traditional Music Sessions:

O’Connor’s Bar, Killarney: Thursday nights
The Moorings, Portmagee: Weekend sessions
Kate Kearney’s Cottage: Traditional Irish nights

Local Festivals:

Puck Fair (August): Ireland’s oldest festival
Killarney Walking Festival (May)

What I’ve Learned After Years of Ring of Kerry Adventures:

Take Your Time
The biggest mistake visitors make is rushing. The Ring of Kerry isn’t just about ticking off sites – it’s about absorbing the atmosphere, chatting with locals, and letting the landscape work its magic.

Embrace the Weather
Irish weather is unpredictable, but that’s part of the charm. Some of my most memorable experiences have been watching storms roll in over the Atlantic or discovering a rainbow over a castle ruin.

Get Off the Main Route
The best experiences often lie down those small side roads. Take that detour, follow the brown heritage signs, stop at the tiny café with no name.

Talk to Locals
Irish hospitality isn’t a myth. Ask for directions, chat at the pub, seek recommendations. The best tips often come from casual conversations with locals.

Keep Coming Back
Each season brings something new. I’ve driven the Ring dozens of times, and every trip reveals something I missed before.

The Ring of Kerry is more than a scenic drive – it’s a journey through Ireland’s soul. From prehistoric sites to cozy pubs, dramatic cliffs to peaceful valleys, each turn in the road offers a new story. Whether you’re planning your first visit or returning for more, the Ring of Kerry never disappoints.

As we say in Ireland, “May the road rise up to meet you” as you embark on your own Ring of Kerry adventure.

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Slán go fóill! (Goodbye for now!)

Essential Contact Information:
Emergency: 112 or 999
Tourist Information Killarney: +353 (0)64 663 1633
Weather Updates: Met Éireann website
Skellig Michael Booking Office: +353 (0)87 617 8114

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If not original Photographs are courtesy of ©Failte Ireland