The English Market, Cork Ireland
As travelling boomers we have a huge affection for farmer’s markets and whether it’s Mexico or Ireland or any country we are lucky enough to visit we have to get to the local market to check it out. Many of the British markets incorporate a range of products from clothes to fresh fish. In Yorkshire for example we had the chance to visit many market towns to enjoy the range of items available. In Mexico we had to visit the Lucas Galvez Market in Merida which is simply enormous. Many markets in Ireland are seasonal but we did get a chance to visit the Limerick Market which is a great treat for interesting breads and authentic foods.
So why is a Market in Ireland called The English Market? Well it has to do with the fact that in 1788 the market was created by an “English” (or Protestant) Corporation, with reform in Ireland around 1840 the corporation was taken over by the Irish (Catholic) majority but the English Market had become known as its own entity so an “Irish Market” was established near St. Peter’s. The years bring many changes however and today this is no longer a market but a restaurant and nightclub known as the [email protected].
The English Market is intricately linked to the city of Cork and over its 218 years of history, it has been a bastion of Irish food traditions. To this day, even amongst the “foodie” trends of the middle class the Market still supplies old school favorites like crubeens, crisheen and tripe to its customers. For those who don’t know crubeens are boiled, battered and fried pig’s feet, drisheen is a type of black pudding made from a variety of animal blood, black pudding is sausages made from pigs blood and white sausages is made from the fat from pigs. Tripe is from a cow’s stomach, when I was a kid my grandfather used to boil it on the stove top for hours (yes, it was disgusting).
The English market is located in the heart of Cork City’s commercial city centre. By the late 1700’s there was a formal covered market in the central space and smaller stalls around the edges of the market which were far more chaotic and of course the vendors paid way less in rent. It wasn’t until 1862 that the new covered Princes Street Market was opened and began operating.
The Market provided a critical source of income for the City, accounting for around 1/3 of the Corporations income in the 1830’s. It was a very up market place, the shoppers were mainly the wealthy from both the Protestant and Catholic populations. During the Great Hunger, the market stayed open but had its own Police force to keep away the starving.
In 1920 when the British Forces overran the city and set fire to Cork, the market miraculously escaped much damage, but in 1922, the market became a casualty of the economic depression and all the things that marked it as a special place to shop had disappeared. It became increasingly a working class market and served the local inhabitants of Cork City with the basics from fruit and veg to meat and fish. In the 1980’s the market was nearly destroyed by fire and after that the City realized that it was time to rebuild and develop the Market as a going concern. Food habits were changing and a new generation of shoppers were looking for gourmet and exotic ingredients.
In the 1990’s a surge of growth (the Celtic Tiger) led to a much more adventurous outlook on food and the “foodie” trend was born. Consumers became more educated about their food and where it came from and this was a huge growth time for the market. Immigration and refugee populations added to the mix and the market became the place to pick up unusual and interesting foods and ingredients. Today the English Market is hailed as one of Ireland’s best and it has become a tourist destination and a world-renowned food emporium. From cheeses to olives, cured meats, exotic fish to imported herbs and spices the market is now a mainstay and a must visit for any foodie in the area.
The one thing I absolutely loved about the market was the Start Up Stall. This is a fabulous way to give local food-based businesses a hand up to get their business off the ground. The successful applicants for the stall get a 4-6 week chance to operate a stall in the market. Ground rules do apply as well, for example the stall is not a cafe and you cannot prepare hot food, it must be prepared elsewhere. You also cannot be in competition with the Markets primary vendors. Your products must be unique, hopefully sustainable, seasonal and local. With a real emphasis on sustainability, locally grown products, innovative ideas and environmentally friendly concepts the Start Up Stall is an idea that should be in every Market.
More of my posts on markets here and Ireland here
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