The Rock of Dunamase: Ireland’s Epic Ruin and Hidden History
The Rock of Dunamase Laois stands over 45 metres high and the castle ruins are silhouetted against the sky. The National Monument is cared for and protected by the Office of Public Works (OPW), Ireland’s government agency responsible for national heritage and historic properties. Heritage Ireland’s role concerning the Rock of Dunamase is as the managing body for this National Monument and an unguided site within its network.
The Rock of Dunamase Ireland is the seat of the ancient Kings of Laois. The Rock of Dunamase is the spectacular hill that the Castle of Dunamase sits atop and overlooks the Valley of the O’Moores just outside Portlaoise in County Laois.
History of the Castle of Dunamase
Dunamase began as an early Christian dun (fort) known as Dún Másc, meaning the ‘Fort of Masc’. The earliest references to the Rock of Dunamase appear in the Annals of the Four Masters which states that the Castle was plundered by Vikings in 843 AD. When the Normans arrived in Ireland during the 12th century the rock was refortified with the great hall and the earlier gate tower surviving from this period.
The Annals of the Four Masters were compiled between 1632 and 1636 in Donegal Town. These annuals are written in Irish and copies are held at Trinity College in Dublin. They are the chronicles of medieval Irish history.
The Four Masters were Brother Michael O’Cleary, Cucogry O’Cleary, Fearfasa O’Mulconry and Peregrine O’Duigenan. Feargal O’Gara of Sligo paid the fees for the scribes to write the annals. Brother Michael was a Franciscan who was sent to Ireland to work on a history of Irish Saints and it was during this work that he compiled the “Annals”.
In Donegal town there stands a Church which incorporates examples of celtic art and in the Diamond there is a 10 metre monument to the Masters.
With the Normans arrival in the late 1100’s the Rock of Dunamase became the most important fortification in Laois (pronounced leash). The Diarmuid Mac Murrough, King of Leinster gave his daughter Aoife the Castle of Dunamase when she was married to the Norman Conqueror Strongbow in 1170.
Aoife and Strongbow had a daughter named Isabel and when she married William Marshal the Earl of Pembroke, Dunamase became part of her marriage dowry. Historians believe that Marshal did carry out some building on the rock between 1208 and 1213 but most of the castle was built earlier. Today most of the surviving ruins at the site date from the late 12th and early 13th centuries AD, but evidence for earlier activity also exists.
Dunamase was held by the Marshall heirs before it passed to the Mortimer family and through to Maud who married Roger Mortimer. All the Mortimer’s lands, including Dunamase, were forfeited to the Crown in 1330. Shortly afterwards, the castle appears passed into the hands of the O’Moores and was abandoned.
Locally they believe that the Castle was under siege by Cromwell’s generals Reynolds and Hewson in 1651. There are not records of this siege but archaeologists believe it is the best explanation for the ruins as we see them today.
Sir John Parnell, who was the chancellor of the Irish Parliament, tried to develop a residence and banqueting hall at Dunamase in 1795. Parnell brought medieval features from ruins all over the country in an attempt to update the Castle but when he died the buildings fell into ruins.
Today the ruins on the Rock of Dunamase which were abandoned in the 14th century are managed by the Office of Public Works (OPW and are free to see). Archaeological excavation and conservation work by the OPW have ensured that the Rock of Dunamase will survive for further generations to explore.
There is a small parking lot at the base of the Rock of Dunamase and the climb up to the top is quite steep and rocky. If you have mobility issues the climb will be taxing but you can make it to the top and will be rewarded by some incredibly stunning views of the countryside.
In the 1990’s there were excavations taking place at Dunamase Castle. Archeologist discovered the impression of a medieval leather shoe in the mortar of the parapet and cat paw prints in the mortar used in the wall of the Great Hall.
The church at the base of the Castle is the Holy Trinity Church, which is a Church of Ireland building from the 1860’s and still in use today.
If you are a fan of movies set in Ireland you may recognize the Rock of Dunamase as it was used in the movie Leap Year. Although in the movies it is called Ballycarbery Castle it is actually a mix of the Rock of Dunamase and some great CGI. The real Ballycarbery Castle is in Kerry.
The Major Visible Structures:
What remains today are primarily the skeletal stone structures from the 13th-century Norman phase, offering a fascinating glimpse into its layout and defensive power. Here’s a breakdown of what you can see:
The Outer Defensive Walls (Curtain Walls):
These are the first ruins you encounter. You can see substantial sections of the massive stone walls that once formed the outermost line of defense, encircling the entire summit of the rock. They give you a clear sense of the site’s immense size.
The Barbican Gatehouse:
This is one of the most impressive and intact features. It was a fortified entrance passage designed to be a deadly kill zone for any attackers who made it through the first gate. You walk through this tunnel-like structure to enter the inner ward. The architecture here clearly shows its military purpose.
The Inner Ward or Bailey:
After passing through the gatehouse, you enter the main central courtyard (the inner ward). This was the heart of the castle complex, where the main domestic buildings (halls, kitchens, quarters) would have been located against the walls. Now, it’s a large, open grassy area defined by the surrounding ruins.
The Great Hall (The Main Keep):
The most prominent ruin on the site is the remains of the great hall or keep. You can see its outline with large, jagged sections of walls still standing, including several large window openings that would have provided light. The sheer scale of the walls indicates this was a grand and important building, likely the lord’s residence and the administrative center.
The Chapel:
Adjacent to the great hall are the ruins of a small, simple chapel. Its rectangular shape and orientation are still clearly discernible. This is where the castle’s inhabitants would have attended daily mass.
Less Obvious / Architectural Features to Look For:
Norman Architectural Details: On the barbican gatehouse, look for the remains of the pointed Norman arch, a classic feature of the era.
Murder Holes: Above the gate passage, you might be able to identify corbels (stone supports) that would have held a platform for murder holes (machicolations), through which defenders could drop rocks or boiling liquid on attackers below.
Fireplaces and Niches: On the interior walls of the great hall, look for the outlines of large fireplaces and small niches in the stonework, which were likely used for storing candles or small items.
Strategic Vantage Points: The entire site is a feature in itself. The 360-degree views of the surrounding Laois countryside are breathtaking and instantly communicate why this was such an unconquerable strategic location for centuries.
Getting to the Rock of Dunamase
Located just outside Portlaoise, the Rock of Dunamase is only around a ten minute drive along the N80. From Dublin, take the M7 south towards Portlaoise. The Rock of Dunamase is signposted just before the Exit 16 turn-off. Take the second left at the roundabout and then follow this road until you come right under the outcrop take the next right and follow this up to the car park.
My Top Tips for Your Visit:
Footwear is Key: This is not a paved path. Wear sturdy, comfortable shoes with good grip. The grass can be slippery; especially after one of Ireland’s famous soft days (aka rain).
Parking: There’s a free, dedicated car park at the base of the hill. It’s a short but steep 5-10 minute walk up to the ruins.
Facilities: There are none. No bathrooms, no cafe. Come prepared. Think of it like a hike.
Photography: The best light is undoubtedly in the golden hour—just before sunset. The low sun sets the limestone ruins ablaze and creates incredible shadows. It’s a photographer’s dream.
Weather: This is Ireland, so be ready for all four seasons in one hour. Bring a rain jacket, even if the sun is shining when you set out.
FAQs
Q: Is the Rock of Dunamase free?
A: Yes! It is completely free to visit, 24 hours a day.
Q: Is it suitable for young children?
A: With close supervision, yes. The views are incredible, but the walls have sheer drops. Keep little ones close.
Q: Is it wheelchair accessible?
A: Unfortunately, no. The path from the car park is steep and uneven, and the site itself is on rough, grassy terrain.
Building Your Irish Adventure: What to Do Nearby
While the Rock is the crown jewel of Laois, the surrounding counties are a treasure trove of hidden history waiting to be explored. If the ancient atmosphere of Dunamase captivates you, consider weaving these other remarkable sites into your Irish road trip:
Emo Court & Gardens: A short 15-minute drive away is the magnificent Neoclassical Emo Court, an 18th-century mansion surrounded by stunning gardens designed by the famous Capability Brown. The contrast between the raw ruin of Dunamase and the elegant opulence of Emo is fascinating.
The Irish National Stud & Japanese Gardens: In nearby Kildare, this is a world-class destination. Even if you have no interest in horses, the spiritually serene Japanese Gardens are an absolute masterpiece and a place of perfect tranquility.
Heywood Gardens in Ballinakill has 50 acres of lakes, woodlands and gardens designed by Luytens to explore and admission is free.
Explore Laois: Don’t just drive through! The county is packed with beautiful walking trails like the Slieve Bloom Mountains and charming heritage towns like Abbeyleix and Durrow.
Aghaboe Abbey is located in the village of Aghaboe, County Laois. Aghaboe Abbey has a tortured history of plundering, burning and rebuilding. Founded by St Canice in or around 576, the original Abbey served as a centre of learning, commerce and agriculture. It was plundered by the Vikings in 913 and rebuilt in 1052 with relics of St Canice (of Kilkenny) enshrined. It was again burned in 1116 and built in 1189. During this period it served as an Augustinian priory and was the cathedral church of the diocese of Ossory, to which the High Crosses of Ahenny and Kilkieran are attributed.
Barrow Way: If you are a hiker or biker you may want to experience the Barrow Way which begins in Country Kildare and runs through Laois following the River Barrow. It is designated as a National Waymarked Trail by the National Trails Office of the Irish Sports Council and is managed by Waterways Ireland.
Step into a Fairy Fort: Just a 20-minute drive north in County Offaly, Rathcroghan (Cruachan Aí) is one of Ireland’s most important ancient archaeological landscapes. This was the legendary royal seat of the Connachta dynasty and is famously known as the starting point of the Cattle Raid of Cooley (Táin Bó Cúailnge) and the gateway to the Otherworld, Oweynagat (Cave of the Cats). Taking a guided tour here feels like walking directly into Ireland’s mythical past.
Kells Priory: Drive 30 minutes east to Kells Priory in County Kilkenny. Often called “The Seven Castles,” it’s not a single castle but a vast, incredibly well-preserved Augustinian monastery surrounded by a unique double-walled fortification. Wandering through its multiple chapels, towers, and tombs is an unforgettable and atmospheric experience that rivals even the famous Rock of Cashel.
St. Mullens Monastery: About 40 minutes south in County Carlow, you’ll find the St. Mullins Monastery Complex. This serene site on the banks of the River Barrow features a round tower stump, numerous ancient Celtic high crosses, and a collection of medieval grave slabs, all nestled beside a picturesque village. It’s a peaceful and profoundly spiritual place that feels untouched by time.
Roscrea Castle: This castle in Tipperary is a fascinating and highly recommended nearby counterpart—a complete, restored Norman castle that provides the context for what Dunamase might have looked like in its prime.
Each of these destinations offers a different piece of Ireland’s complex historical puzzle, making a visit to the Rock of Dunamase just the beginning of a deeper exploration into the heart of the Ancient East.
Where to stay near Dunamase
Abbeyleix Manor Hotel – The 3-star Abbeyleix Manor Hotel offers a relaxing and ideal base to explore the hidden beauties of County Laois and the Midlands of Ireland. The charming town of Abbeyleix is located within walking distance.
The hotel boasts en-suite bedrooms, each tastefully decorated and designed to offer ample living space maintaining a cosy and relaxing sleeping space.
The hotel is 8 km from Portlaoise town centre, with easy access to Dublin and Cork cities.
Full Irish breakfasts are served each day, and guests can enjoy dinner in the cosy Manor Bar, which offers a varied a la carte menu. 3-course meals can be enjoyed every Saturday at Old Oak Restaurant, with homemade food prepared by the hotels team of chefs.
Preston House – Preston House is also located in Abbyleix within 19 km of Aghaboe Abbey and provides free WiFi and a garden. this is a 6 bedroom fully equipped holiday home perfect for exploring the midlands of Ireland.
Standing amidst the silent, weather-beaten stones of the Rock of Dunamase, it’s easy to feel the weight of the centuries. This isn’t a place polished for tourists; it’s a raw, powerful echo of Ireland’s turbulent history. You don’t just see Dunamase—you feel it. The wind, the views, and the sheer scale of the ruins combine to create an experience that is both humbling and utterly thrilling. It’s a stark reminder of the clans, kings, and conquerors who shaped this land, offering a connection to the past that is far more visceral than any textbook could provide.
As the sun begins to dip below the horizon, casting long shadows through the empty windows of the great hall, you understand why this place endured. It’s more than a ruin; it’s a monument to strategy, survival, and the undeniable spirit of Ireland. It’s a story written in stone and sky, and it’s absolutely free for anyone willing to seek it out.
Start Planning Your Trip
👉 Public Transportation in Ireland
👉 Answering all your travel questions about Ireland
👉What to pack for your Ireland trip
👉 Northern Ireland Public Transportation
👉 Exploring the Troubles taking a Black Taxi Tour
👉 Global Food Guide Cuisine & Food Culture
There are 26 counties in the Republic of Ireland and you can start discovering them all
Carlow – Ceatharlach Four lakes though the lakes are now gone
Dublin -Baile Átha Cliath Town of the hurdled ford
Kildare – Cill Dara Church of the oak
Kilkenny – Cill Chainnigh Church of Cainnech a saint
Laois – Laois Named after the Uí Laoighis tribe
Longford – An Longfort The fortress or ship port
Louth -Lú – Named after the god Lugh
Meath – An Mhí The middle once the heart of Ireland
Offaly – Uíbh Fhailí Descendants of Failí a tribal name
Westmeath – An Iarmhí West Meath
Wexford – Loch Garman Lake of Garman a mythical figure
Wicklow – Cill Mhantáin Church of the toothless one a monk
Clare – An Clár The plank a bridge across the River Fergus
Kerry – Ciarraí People of Ciar a tribe named after a dark-haired warrior
Limerick – Luimneach Bare spot or bare marsh
Tipperary – Tiobraid Árann Well of Ara a spring near the River Ara
Waterford – Port Láirge Lárag’s port a Viking leader
Galway – Gaillimh Stony river named after the River Corrib
Mayo – Maigh Eo Plain of the yew trees
Roscommon – Ros Comáin Wood of Comán a saint
Sligo – Sligeach Shelly place plentiful shellfish in the river
Cavan – An Cabhán – The hollow