Visiting the Iconic Mussenden Temple Downhill Demesne

Mussenden Temple is perched precariously on the edge of a slowly dissolving cliff on the northern coast of Ireland. The Temple is located in the beautiful landscape of Downhill Demesne near Castlerock in County Londonderry.

The dramatic 120 ft cliff top that Mussenden is perched on has slowly been eroding for hundreds of years but the outstanding views from the edge offer westward views to Magilligan Point and Donegal and to the east Castlerock beach; which you might recognize from the Game of Thrones. Further on you can see Fair Head, Portrush and Portstewart. Both Mussenden Temple and Downhill Beach were used in Game of Thrones as the location for the Dragonstone exterior.

What is a demesne?

You will often see the word ‘demesne’ used in many locations throughout both Northern Ireland and the Republic. Demesne simply means that part of the estate was surrounded by a wall and was for the use of the landowner only. Downhill Castle as it is sometimes known as is not actually a castle but a rather large English-style Manor House.

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Mussenden Temple tickets

The National Trust owns the Estate and they charge Adults £7.20 (£6.50); children £3.60 (£3.25); Family £18.00 (£16.25). We went in the wintertime around February and there was no one minding the gate so we entered free of charge, although that did not allow us to see inside the Temple as it was closed just to wander the grounds. Ticket prices apply to visiting the entire estate including the Demense and Hazlett House.

The National Trust is operating a Pay by Phone parking at Lion’s Gate, where car park charges will apply for non-members. £5 per vehicle Free parking for National Trust members.

How to see Mussenden Temple free

A simple answer to that is to walk to the Downhill Demesne. Walk NI says the following:

Castlerock to Mussenden Temple walk

This 2-3 mile walk starts and finishes in the small car park at the western end of Tunnel Brae, Castlerock, adjacent to the black stone gate lodge. Cross the stone step-over stile and proceed along a stone path adjacent to the boundary of the caravan park. Follow the grass path around the boundary of this cliff-top headland, known locally as “The Moor”.

Take time to enjoy the spectacular panoramic views afforded by this elevated coastal location. In clear visibility, it is possible to view the following: Donegal’s Inishowen peninsula to the west; the Giants Causeway and Antrim Hills to the east, and the Paps of Jura, Scottish Isles to the northeast. Extra care should be exercised at all times on this headland due to the proximity of severe cliff edges.

How to get to Mussenden Temple

The Museum Temple, Downhill Demesne, the Mausoleum and the Belvedere can all be visited for nothing with a hike. A ticket actually includes all these plus Hezlett House. 

Hike to Mussenden Temple

However, if you hike across from Castle Rock, there is a free entrance parallel to the stretch of railway.

Driving to Mussenden Temple

If you want to travel by rental car to the Downhill Demesne and Mussenden Temple you will find it 1 mile west of Castlerock and 5 miles west of Coleraine on the Coleraine to Downhill coast road. There is a car park that is free.

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Train to Mussenden Temple

You can catch a train to Mussenden from Belfast and you get a ticket to Castlerock and from there it is a ½ mile walk to Mussenden.

By bus

You can take the Ulsterbus 234 from Coleraine to Londonderry, ask the driver to let you know when you reach the right stop. The walk to the Temple and Demense will only take around 10 minutes or so.

Mussenden Temple parking

There is Pay by Phone parking at Lion’s Gate, where car park charges will apply for non-members. £ 5 per vehicle Free parking for National Trust members. Free parking for blue badge holders (disabled badges from the USA, and Canada are accepted.

World Monuments Watch – Mussenden Temple

Mussenden Temple was completed in 1783 and over the centuries coastal erosion has caused the cliff to lose over 30 feet and by 1997 was only inches from the edge and within moments of collapsing into the sea.

World Monuments Watch provided funding to help stabilize the cliff using rock anchors, bolts, and dowels to stop erosion and secure the escarpment. Cavities and large fissures on the cliff face were filled with pigmented mortar and local basalt. In 1998, the historic temple was secured and markers were placed on the cliff face to allow for regular inspections and monitoring of the erosion.  

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History of the Downhill Demesne

Frederick Hervey was one of Ireland’s most eccentric and genial characters. He was known as the Earl Bishop as he was 4th Earl of Bristol and Bishop of Derry. He apparently had a wicked sense of humour and some interesting eccentricities but he was committed to political, social and religious change. He promoted unemployment relief and spoke out on behalf of the Catholics and even allowed them to say mass in the Crypt of the temple. 

Downhill House was beautiful in its day with feature domes and fluted Corinthian pilasters. The Lobby was massive and supported by columns of Derbyshire marble.

The Bishop loved to travel and collected many paintings and works of sculpture in his travels that were displayed in the house. He died in Italy in 1803 and the house was inherited by his relation Henry Bruce, who made the House his seat.

Sadly Downhill demesne was damaged by a fire in 1851 and left to rot. By 1950 its roof had gone and so the house became a complete ruin. 

Mussenden Temple

Mussenden Temple looks over Downhill Strand the “Temple” offers views westwards over Downhill Strand towards Magilligan Point and on across to Inishowen in County Donegal; and to the east, Castlerock beach towards Portstewart, Portrush and Fair Head.

Mussenden was designed as a library and built for the niece of the 4th Earl of Bristol and Bishop of Derry – Frideswide Bruce, who was the Bishop’s “cousin”, when she was in fact his niece and the relationship was not considered “proper” and caused a scandal.

Frideswide eventually married a wealthy London banker named Daniel Mussenden and, as a wedding gift to her, the Bishop built Mussenden Temple which was to be Frideswide’s retreat.

Due to Frideswide’s ill health, probably exacerbated by the scandal, she died in 1785 and Mussenden Temple became her memorial.

The temple, inspired by the Temple of Vesta in Tivoli near Rome was built as a summer library but was heated constantly by a fire in an area below the floor; this prevented the books kept here from becoming damp from the sea air.

The Temple’s dramatic setting on the wild Causeway coastal headland provides some of Northern Ireland’s most iconic photographs.

 The inscription around the building reads:

“Suave, mari magno turbantibus aequora ventis
e terra magnum alterius spectare laborem.”

“Tis pleasant, safely to behold from shore
The troubled sailor, and hear the tempests roar.”

Garden, Park, Follies and Outbuildings of Downhill Demesne & Mussenden Temple

The grounds were laid out in the 18th century by the Earl-Bishop and are today owned by The National Trust as part of the Downhill & Mussenden Temple Estate.

Also on the Estate today is the Gateway, the ruins of the House, the gardens, the domed Mausoleum (built by the Earl-Bishop in memory of his brother), woodland and cliff walks, a fish pond, and family memorials.

Lion’s gate

The Lion’s Gate is one of the two entrances to the property. Recently restored the pillars are topped by stone snow leopards.

I must put in a word here about Al’s Coffee which you can see from the Lion’s Gate entrance. Al is a Scottish fellow selling coffee on an Irish estate and his coffee is beyond the best. It was literally the best coffee I have had in Ireland, so good I didn’t even need sugar and trust me that is saying something indeed. So pop by Al’s and grab yourself a great cup.

The Bishop’s Gate

The Bishop’s Gate has a lovely Gothic gate lodge and is the closest entrance to the gardens and the Black Glen. Have a look at the symbolic carvings, including a bishop’s mitre and several cow skulls.

The Black Glen

This is a small garden devoted to trees it makes a really nice walk in away from the strong winds that can blow you away on the cliff edge.

Lady Erne’s Seat

The Belvedere, also known as Lady Erne’s Seat. The summer house of the bishop’s daughter Mary is a lovely quiet spot from which to see the sea, a fitting reward for the climb up from the Black Glen. 

The Bog Garden

This garden by the Bishop’s Gate houses a great variety of flowers, including some stunning irises. The garden was first created by Lady Bruce in 1910.

The Mausoleum

Really a cenotaph – an empty tomb built as a memorial for Earl Bishop’s brother, George Hervey. Apparently somewhere on the grounds, you can spot the statue of George that was blown off in a windstorm.   

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Dovecote and Icehouse

The round building was an icehouse on the bottom half and a dovecote on the top. The ice used to be cut from a nearby pond and stored here. 

The Walled Garden

Once a beautiful garden it provided Downhill Demesne with all it needed; fruits and vegetables for the table and flowers for decoration. The garden now has a small herd of sheep and some apple trees nothing really remains of the gardens. 

Getting married at Mussenden Temple

What an absolutely unique place to get married in Ireland. Mussenden Temple and the Downhill Demesne would make a brilliant ceremony site or simply go and have your wedding photos taken there. A Mussenden temple wedding cost will be up to the cost of the package you choose for your wedding, it could include decor, wedding planner, photographer and all the associated costs.

Mussenden Temple facts

visiting Mussenden Temple is a unique and memorable experience that offers stunning views of the Northern Irish coastline. Whether you’re a history buff or simply looking for an enjoyable day out with its rich history and breathtaking scenery, Mussenden Temple has something to offer to everyone who sets foot in its vicinity. So why not pack a picnic and spend a lazy afternoon taking in the sights at one of Ireland’s most picturesque locations? You won’t be disappointed!

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