Living in Chelem Mexico in the Yucatan Peninsula an expat story
Much has been written about retiring to Mexico but we found it difficult to find more information about specific places on the Emerald Coast which covers most of the Yucatan. Chelem is a small fishing village that we spent a year in when we retired to Mexico.
Nestled along the stunning coastline of the Yucatán Peninsula, the small fishing village of Chelem offers expats a chance to enjoy Mexican culture and a slower pace of life in a real Mexican village. With its sandy beaches, warm turquoise waters, and various activities in town, the town of Chelem is the essence of laid-back living.
This hidden gem attracts a diverse community of locals and expatriates, this quiet fishing village is a great place to retire to. The village is not just about picturesque views; it boasts a thriving local market, fresh seafood, and friendly faces that welcome newcomers with open arms.
There are many expat owned restaurants as well as local restaurants and cafes for authentic Yucatecan food. For those seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle of modern life, Chelem presents an idyllic backdrop for relaxation, adventure, and connection to nature.
Where is Chelem Yucatan?
Chelem is on the Gulf of Mexico, about half an hour outside of Merida which makes a perfect retirement destination with lots of ex-pats from N. America.
How to get to Chelem
Chelem is a small beach town located on the northern coast of the Yucatán Peninsula in Mexico, within the municipality of Progreso. It’s known for its laid-back atmosphere, tranquil beaches, and proximity to the larger city of Mérida.
How to Get to Chelem
1. From Mérida
– By Car:
– Take the Progreso Highway (Carretera Mérida-Progreso), which is Highway 261, heading north.
– After reaching Progreso, continue west towards Chelem. The drive from Mérida to Chelem takes about 45-60 minutes.
– By Public Transport:
– From the CAME Bus Terminal in Mérida, you can take a bus or colectivo (shared van) to Progreso.
– Once in Progreso, you can take a local taxi or a small local van (colectivo) that heads to Chelem.
– By Taxi: A taxi ride from Mérida to Chelem is another option, although it will be more expensive than public transportation.
2. From Progreso
– By Car: Chelem is about a 10-15 minute drive west along the Chelem-Progreso Road (local road).
– By Public Transport: Local taxis or colectivos are available to take you directly to Chelem from the Progreso center.
What is it like living in Chelem, Mexico as an expat?
Living in Chelem, Mexico is often described as a unique experience filled with the charm of a small coastal town. The Yucatán offers a laid-back lifestyle, stunning beaches, and a welcoming local community. Expats often find that the cost of living is affordable, making it an attractive destination for those looking to retire or enjoy a longer vacation. The proximity to larger towns like Merida and Progreso provides access to modern amenities while still enjoying the tranquility of a beachside village.
What are the best ways to find rental properties in Chelem Yucatán?
Finding rental properties in Chelem can be done through various channels. Many expats recommend using local real estate agents familiar with the area. Websites that cater to expats and local classifieds can also be beneficial. Additionally, networking through social media groups and word of mouth can lead to great opportunities. The Chelem market is diverse with options ranging from beachfront homes to more affordable inland rentals.
How safe is Chelem for expats and tourists?
Generally, Chelem is considered a safe place for expats and tourists. The community is tight-knit, and residents look out for one another. Like any coastal destination, it’s important to remain aware of your surroundings and take usual precautions. The friendly nature of the locals adds to the sense of security, making living in Chelem a peaceful experience.
What is the local culture like in Chelem?
The local culture in Chelem, Yucatán is rich and vibrant, deeply rooted in Mexican traditions. Festivals, local markets, and communal gatherings are common, allowing for interaction with both locals and other expats. The cultural diversity, especially with influences from the Mayan heritage, makes it a fascinating place to explore. Expats often find themselves participating in community events, enhancing their experience of life in Chelem.
What amenities are available for expats living in Chelem?
While it may not have the extensive infrastructure of larger cities, Chelem provides enough essentials for a comfortable lifestyle. The town is dotted with small grocery stores, local markets, and convenience shops where residents can purchase everyday items like fresh produce, household goods, and seafood straight from the local fishermen. A weekly market takes place in the town square, which gives access to fresh fruits, vegetables, and other local products. The larger grocery stores are based in Progresso and your best option for American style goods can be found in Merida with major US shops such as Costco and Sam’s Club.
For dining, Chelem has a selection of local restaurants and beachfront palapas (open-air restaurants) serving fresh seafood, Mexican dishes, and even international cuisine catering to the growing expat community. Many of these eateries offer relaxed, beachfront seating, creating a pleasant dining atmosphere. There are also a few bars and cafes that have become popular gathering spots for residents and visitors alike, offering casual spaces for socializing.
While Chelem doesn’t have large hospitals, it has a few small clinics and pharmacies along with a local medical practice with English speaking doctors to handle basic health needs. For more comprehensive healthcare services, residents can visit nearby Progreso, which has larger clinics, or Mérida, which boasts modern hospitals with state-of-the-art facilities and internationally recognized medical care.
In terms of recreation, Chelem’s main draw is its beautiful beaches and tranquil atmosphere. Residents enjoy activities like swimming, fishing, boating, and beachcombing. The town’s modest infrastructure also supports a handful of community events and local gatherings, with both the local and expat populations organizing social activities and charity events. Chelem is particularly popular with expats, so there’s a strong sense of community, with many informal groups offering social, recreational, and volunteer opportunities.
Additionally, while Chelem itself is peaceful, the nearby town of Progreso and the city of Mérida provide a wealth of additional amenities, including larger supermarkets, malls, and cultural attractions. This combination of peaceful beach life with easy access to larger cities for more specialized services makes Chelem a comfortable and attractive place to live for retirees and those seeking a quieter, more relaxed lifestyle.
Life in Chelem
Chelem (Cheh-lem’) which means “under the magpie”. This is an older fishing village, with a range of services, stores, shops, restaurants, and collectivos (buses). The only ATMs, are at Willy’s in the Village and on the Navy Base. Chelem is literally cheek-by-jowl with Chuburna and is a favourite ex-pat enclave with many of the restaurants and bars being run by ex-pats who have retired here.
The homes, that are pretty much wall-to-wall, are modest. Prices in this area for rent and purchase are cheaper than in some other areas and range between $800 and $5000 USD a month for rentals. To get here you do not enter Progreso, but head west on the overpass before entering Progreso.
Planning to retire in Chelem?
Retiring to Chelem, Yucatán, offers a tranquil, affordable, and laid-back lifestyle perfect for those seeking peace by the sea. With its serene beaches, charming local community, and proximity to the larger cities of Progreso and Mérida, Chelem provides retirees the best of both worlds: a quiet coastal haven with easy access to urban conveniences. The cost of living is relatively low, making it attractive for foreign retirees, especially those from the U.S. and Canada.
The town’s friendly expat community adds to its appeal, fostering a sense of belonging and camaraderie. Additionally, Chelem’s location on the Gulf of Mexico ensures warm weather year-round, while the region’s rich Mayan culture and proximity to historic sites offer endless opportunities for exploration. Combined with excellent local seafood, fresh markets, and a relaxed pace of life, Chelem is a hidden gem for those looking to retire in paradise.
Amenities in Chelem
Chelem, Yucatán, is a small beachside town that, despite its laid-back charm, offers a range of basic amenities that cater to both locals and expats. While it may not have the extensive infrastructure of larger cities, Chelem provides enough essentials for a comfortable lifestyle. The town is dotted with small grocery stores, local markets, and convenience shops where residents can purchase everyday items like fresh produce, household goods, and seafood straight from the local fishermen. A weekly market takes place in the town square, which gives access to fresh fruits, vegetables, and other local products.
For dining, Chelem has a selection of local restaurants and beachfront palapas (open-air restaurants) serving fresh seafood, Mexican dishes, and even international cuisine catering to the growing expat community. Many of these eateries offer relaxed, beachfront seating, creating a pleasant dining atmosphere. There are also a few bars and cafes that have become popular gathering spots for residents and visitors alike, offering casual spaces for socializing.
While Chelem doesn’t have large hospitals, it has a few small clinics and pharmacies to handle basic health needs. For more comprehensive healthcare services, residents can visit nearby Progreso, which has larger clinics, or Mérida, which boasts modern hospitals with state-of-the-art facilities and internationally recognized medical care. Mérida is just under an hour’s drive away, making access to high-quality healthcare relatively convenient.
In terms of recreation, Chelem’s main draw is its beautiful beaches and tranquil atmosphere. Residents enjoy activities like swimming, fishing, boating, and beachcombing. The town’s modest infrastructure also supports a handful of community events and local gatherings, with both the local and expat populations organizing social activities and charity events. Chelem is particularly popular with expats, so there’s a strong sense of community, with many informal groups offering social, recreational, and volunteer opportunities.
Farmer’s Market in Chelem – Natural Thangs Farmer’s Market
Natural Thangs is located between Chelem and Chuburna and they not only do landscape design but have been hosting a very successful farmer’s market for a few years now. The market which is held on Mondays from 9 till noon has a variety of vendors from Up in Smoke who have great dips, ham hocks, smoked bacon and cheeses, to fresh bread and Mexican-made cheeses that includes a really good Mexican Parmesan.
Natural Thangs has also merged with the Gypsy Market which means that on the last Sunday of the month there are some great local artists presenting their work here and you can own an original piece of art for a bargain price. Plus there are amazing breakfast burritos, bread, sausages, occasionally the tamale man makes an appearance and there is often a fundraising effort on for the local children’s baseball team or dogs and cats for adoption that have been rescued. You will also quite likely be able to meet every ex-pat in the neighbourhood.
If you head to Natural Thangs such as you will find Anita the Sausage Lady who also has a location in Merida selling some of the best German-style sausages you will ever eat. There’s fabulous fresh organic vegetables, meat pies, pizza, the best breakfast burrito ever, artisans, smoked foods, cookies, cakes the list is endless and delicious.
Located on the Hwy between Chelem & Chuburna, offering a Farmer’s Market every Monday from 9-12 and Artisan Market bi-weekly on Thursday from 9-1 Beginning in November to the end of April.
Additionally, while Chelem itself is peaceful, the nearby town of Progreso and the city of Mérida provide a wealth of additional amenities, including larger supermarkets, malls, and cultural attractions. This combination of peaceful beach life with easy access to larger cities for more specialized services makes Chelem a comfortable and attractive place to live for retirees and those seeking a quieter, more relaxed lifestyle.
Transportation in Chelem
In most small villages like Chelem and Chuburna, there are collectivos or small transit buses that will take you into larger centres such as Progreso from where you can grab a bigger bus to Merida.
From Merida, you can take all kinds of transport to other areas and cities or you can rent a car which is of great value in the Yucatan. In Chelem the collectives pass by virtually all corners in the village and then end up back at the main square where you can catch one to Chuburna, Chixculub, Yuculpaten, or Progreso. The collectivos cost around 9 pesos and you pay when you exit the bus.
In Merida, you will find every North American convenience you could desire. There’s Costco, Sams, McDonald’s, Kentucky Fried Chicken, and Krispy Kreme Donuts along with DYI stores, and furniture places. Merida is where you head if you are looking for those things like Cheddar Cheese you must-have for your dinner. Although I have to say these days with the farmer’s markets in Chelem you really don’t need to go to Merida unless it is to the Slow Food Market which is amazing.
There are plenty of taxis in Progreso particularly around the main square in the centre of town or at stores like Bodega where many ex-pats shop. Taxis are always plentiful here and the cost to Chelem is in 2015, $90 pesos. There are no taxis in Chelem itself but you can order a taxi and there are several that are English speaking, or some ex-pats offer shuttle services for shopping and other needs.
Chelem Real Estate
Lots of options with Real Estate, but buyers beware there are some very trustworthy reputable brokers and dealers, but we suggest you ask around for references and check out the many Chelem/Chuburna Yucatan Facebook groups for more information.
Finding a place to live in Chelem
If you are looking for a place to stay while checking out the area take a look at these private vacation rentals. The folks that run both of these places are honest and trustworthy and will have great recommendations for Real Estate agents for you.
Right on the beach as you enter Chelem, Casa Rosa is owned and operated by a couple of British ex-pats, Tony and Karen. The apartments are really pretty and Tony and Karen live on the premises and can help with groceries, airport shuttles, and they are a true encyclopedia of knowledge about the area. Casa Rosa has now changed from a BnB to a long-term rental and the pricing is very affordable and the place is fabulous.
The Rio Mare apartments are run by Jill and Martin and they are located directly above the Bull Pen restaurant, they are lovely little one-bedrooms and some single hotel-style rooms. There is a lovely little swimming pool and there is no worries about noises from the bar but there are tons of events to take part in and get to know the local ex-pats.
Safety in the Yucatan
Lately, a lot of folks have been asking about crime in the Chelem, Chuburna, Progreso areas. I can’t say there isn’t any crime because there is. What I will say is that for the most part, it is non-violent crime. Remember this is a poor area so with ex-pats with lots of stuff pouring in and locals starving because of low wages, bad fishing and poverty you can expect break-ins.
Some folks have suffered several break-ins and many have taken the precaution of having high walls, gates, large guard type dogs and security systems. All I can say is ask around, see what the neighbours are saying and how the folks there are dealing with these kinds of issues.
Nearby Attractions
Quintana Roo
Quintana Roo is a vibrant state located on the eastern coast of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, known for its stunning Caribbean beaches, rich Mayan history, and thriving tourism industry. Home to popular destinations like Cancún, Playa del Carmen, and the island of Cozumel, Quintana Roo attracts visitors with its turquoise waters, white-sand beaches, and world-class resorts. The state is also rich in ecological and cultural experiences, with the Mayan ruins of Tulum, Coba, and the famous biosphere reserve Sian Ka’an offering insight into the region’s ancient past and natural beauty.
Campeche
Visiting Campeche from Chelem is a great day trip that offers a glimpse into the colonial charm and rich history of this coastal city. Located approximately 160 kilometers (about 100 miles) southwest of Chelem, the drive takes around two and a half hours along scenic routes. Once in Campeche, visitors can explore its well-preserved colonial architecture, UNESCO World Heritage-listed historic center, and colorful streets lined with vibrant buildings
Progreso Pier
One of the longest piers in the world, located in the nearby port town of Progreso. We always dropped into Progreso for its market and lively shops.
Ría Celestún Biosphere Reserve
A bit further out, this reserve is known for its flamingo population and other wildlife.
Archaelogical Sites nearby
Several fascinating archaeological sites are located near Chelem, Yucatán, and there are many 25 Best day trips from Merida Mexicoday trips from Merida that provide glimpses into the rich history and culture of the ancient Maya civilization. While Chelem itself is primarily a beach town, the surrounding region, particularly the Yucatán Peninsula, is renowned for its impressive Mayan ruins. Here are some key archaeological sites within a reasonable distance from Chelem:
Dzibilchaltún
Dzibilchaltún is the closest archaeological site to Chelem (about 30-minute drive and offers an impressive blend of Mayan history and natural beauty.
The site is famous for the Temple of the Seven Dolls, where during the spring and fall equinoxes, sunlight passes through the temple’s doorways in a striking astronomical alignment. Dzibilchaltún also has a cenote (Cenote Xlacah), perfect for a swim after exploring the ruins, and a small museum showcasing Mayan artifacts.
Xcambó
Xcambó is another nearby site, located close to the coast about 30-minute drive). It was once an important coastal trading center for the Maya and features several well-preserved structures, including temples and pyramids. The site is relatively small but rich in history, offering insight into the ancient Maya’s maritime activities and salt production, a valuable resource at the time.
Mayapán
Mayapán (about 1.5-hour drive) is often called the “last great Maya capital.” It was a powerful political and cultural center during the Post-Classic period, and many of its structures resemble those found at Chichén Itzá, such as the Castle of Kukulcán. The site includes numerous pyramids, temples, and ceremonial platforms, and it offers a quieter experience than larger sites like Chichén Itzá. Mayapán is a great option for those looking for well-preserved ruins without the crowds.
Chichén Itzá
While farther from Chelem, (about 2.5-hour drive) Chichén Itzá is one of the most famous and iconic archaeological sites in the world. This UNESCO World Heritage Site features the awe-inspiring Pyramid of Kukulcán, the Great Ball Court, the Temple of the Warriors, and the Cenote Sagrado, among other magnificent structures. Chichén Itzá was one of the most significant Mayan cities and remains a must-visit for anyone in the Yucatán Peninsula interested in archaeology and history.
Uxmal
Uxmal is another UNESCO World Heritage Site (about 2-hour drive) and one of the most important archaeological sites in the Puuc region. Famous for its unique architecture, Uxmal’s highlights include the Pyramid of the Magician, the Governor’s Palace, and the Nunnery Quadrangle. The intricate carvings and impressive scale of the site make Uxmal one of the most beautiful Maya cities, and it’s less crowded than Chichén Itzá, offering a more serene experience.
Ek’ Balam
Ek’ Balam is a lesser-known but equally fascinating Mayan city, known for its well-preserved pyramids and stunning stucco sculptures (about 2.5-hour drive).
The Acropolis, the largest structure at the site, allows visitors to climb to the top for a panoramic view of the surrounding jungle. Ek’ Balam is also home to intricate carvings and tombs, showcasing the artistry and ceremonial importance of the site.
Quintana Roo
Quintana Roo is located on the eastern coast of Mexico’s Yucatán Peninsula, known for its stunning Caribbean beaches, rich Mayan history, and thriving tourism industry. Home to popular destinations like Cancún, Playa del Carmen, and the island of Cozumel, Quintana Roo attracts visitors with its turquoise waters, white-sand beaches, and world-class resorts.
The state is also rich in ecological and cultural experiences, with the Mayan ruins of Tulum, Coba, and the famous biosphere reserve Sian Ka’an offering insight into the region’s ancient past and natural beauty. Keep your eyes out when driving to Cancun or Playa for the signs of the little people the Aluxes of the Yucatan.
For those living in or visiting Chelem, there are several archaeological sites that are easily accessible for day trips. These sites provide an incredible opportunity to explore the ancient history of the Maya civilization while enjoying the natural beauty of the Yucatán Peninsula. Whether you’re interested in the bustling ancient cities of Chichén Itzá and Uxmal, or the more intimate settings of Dzibilchaltún and Xcambó, there’s no shortage of historical treasures to discover near Chelem.
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