Boa Island Janus Head: The Iron Age Stone Idols of Caldragh Cemetery, Fermanagh

The Boa Island Janus Head is a two-faced carved stone figure, known as the Dreenan Figure, standing in Caldragh Cemetery on Boa Island in County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland. Dating to the Iron Age or early medieval period (estimated 400 to 800 AD), it is one of Ireland’s most enigmatic ancient monuments. Entry is free and the site is open year-round. A car is essential as there is no public transport.

There is a place in the northwest of Ireland that has been watching the sun rise for over a thousand years, possibly much longer, and it does not care whether you believe in it or not. The Boa Island Janus Head stands in a small, lumpy, wind-battered graveyard called Caldragh Cemetery on Boa Island in County Fermanagh, staring in two directions at once, as it always has. If you have come looking for pagan stone idols, ancient mysteries, and the kind of silence that makes the hairs on the back of your neck stand up, you have found the right place.

I have brought visitors here more times than I can count, navigating the almost-invisible turn off the B82 and the farm track that leads to the iron cattle gate. Nobody is ever unmoved. The two figures in that graveyard, the Dreenan Figure and the Lustymore Man, have a presence that no photograph fully captures. This guide will tell you everything you need to know to find them, understand them, and make the most of your time in one of Ireland’s most extraordinary and least visited ancient sites.

What Is the Boa Island Janus Head? A Clear Definition

The Boa Island Janus Head, more accurately called the Dreenan Figure, is a double-sided carved stone statue standing in Caldragh Cemetery on Boa Island, Lower Lough Erne. It is approximately four feet high and depicts two bearded faces carved back to back, each with oval faces, large almond-shaped eyes, a straight nose, and a half-open mouth. One side has a tongue partially protruding, a symbol widely associated in Celtic tradition with divinity and power. Despite its popular name, it has no connection to the Roman god Janus. The name attached itself because the figures appear to look in two directions simultaneously, as Janus was believed to do.

For further context, the official description on Fermanagh Lakelands confirms that what we are looking at is not one figure with two faces, but two complete and roughly identical figures placed back to back. Both depictions show a human form without a clear neck, the head resting directly on a square torso with hunched shoulders, crossed arms, and a belt. On the sides where the two carved figures meet, there is an interlace design that may represent hair, or possibly antlers.

Dating: Estimates range from the pre-Christian Iron Age to the early Christian period of the 7th to 9th century. The interlaced patterning suggests Insular art influence, which would place it in the early medieval period, but the crude carving style has led many scholars to favour an older origin. Debate among archaeologists remains genuinely unresolved.

History of Boa Island and Caldragh Cemetery

Boa Island takes its name from the Irish Inis Badhbha, meaning Island of Badhbh, a Celtic war goddess whose original name translates as carrion crow. Badhbh was a shapeshifter who could take the form of a crow and was said to have appeared on the shoulder of the great warrior Cuchulainn after he fell in battle. At other times she appeared as a wolf. She was one of three sister war goddesses alongside Macha and the Morrigan, daughters of the goddess Ernmass of the Tuatha De Danann, the ancient mythological race of Ireland.

That the island carries her name is significant. These were not places named casually. Caldragh Cemetery itself may be among the oldest burial sites in Fermanagh. The word ‘caldragh’ was typically used for Irish cemeteries that were not consecrated Christian ground, places where pagans, unbaptised people, or outsiders were interred. There is a faint trace of an enclosure that curves around the northern edge of the cemetery, visible on satellite mapping, which may indicate an even older boundary than the graveyard itself.

The vast waters of Lough Erne cover approximately one-third of County Fermanagh. The lake system comprises two large lakes, Upper and Lower Lough Erne, with the town of Enniskillen sitting on an island between them. The waters eventually drain into the Atlantic at Ballyshannon in Donegal. Within this network are more than a hundred islands, many of which carry extraordinary stories.

Who First Recorded the Boa Island Figures?

The antiquarian and painter George Victor Du Noyer recorded the Dreenan Figure in 1841 in a series of pencil sketches, making it the earliest known formal documentation of the statue. However, it was Dorothy Lowry-Corry who first brought the sculptures to academic attention in 1933. When she found the Dreenan Figure, it was partially sunk into the ground in a tangle of bushes. It was later moved to its present position and placed on a plinth.

Around the same time, a second figure was taken from a disused Christian graveyard on the neighbouring island of Lustymore and eventually placed next to the Dreenan Figure in Caldragh Cemetery for safekeeping, after a brief period in the home of Lady Ernest. The Lustymore figure was moved to the cemetery in 1939.

In 2003, a plinth or base was found on Lustymore and brought to Boa Island. This is thought to be the original base of the Dreenan Figure, which would have made it considerably more life-sized than it appears today, mounted on its current pillar.

The Two Boa Island Figures Explained

The Dreenan Figure (the Janus Head)

The larger of the two is called the Dreenan Figure, named after the townland in which Caldragh Cemetery sits. It stands roughly four feet high and is the one commonly referred to as the Janus Head. As noted by Tuatha.ie, both sides of the statue show an oval-faced figure with large, bulging, almond-shaped eyes and a straight nose, but they are not identical. One side has the tongue partially sticking out; the other appears to simply have an open mouth.

The arms are crossed over what appears to be a belt. On the east side, the figure faces the sunrise. Some observers over the centuries have noted that this face appears to be speaking or calling out. There is a carved groove or trough at the top of the heads where people today leave coins and small offerings, a tradition that speaks to an unbroken instinct in human beings to give something to the old gods, or whatever they were.

One enduring theory is that the groove at the top may have been designed to hold antlers or braided hair, connecting the two heads in a symbolic marriage of opposites. The interlace pattern on the sides where the two figures meet gives the statue its most distinctive feature and is what has caused some scholars, including Dorothy Lowry-Corry, to compare these figures to early Christian carving traditions rather than purely pagan Iron Age work. The Irishmegaliths.org resource describes both figures as Celtic Idols.

The Lustymore Figure (the Lusty Man)

The smaller figure, known as the Lustymore Man, was found in a marshy field on the nearby island of Lustymore and relocated to Caldragh Cemetery in 1939 for protection. It is more weathered than the Dreenan Figure and more plainly carved, with a heart-shaped face. Strikingly, it appears to have only one eye fully carved, which has given rise to the compelling theory that this figure represents a divine one-eyed being, comparable to Odin of Norse mythology who sacrificed one eye in exchange for wisdom.

The figure appears to be holding something in its arms, though centuries of weathering have made it impossible to determine what. Like the female side of the Dreenan Figure, it is believed to have its tongue protruding, and in medieval iconography this gesture became associated with lust. This is likely the source of some of the confusion around the ‘Lusty Man’ name, which in reality simply refers to Lustymore Island, where it was found.

It may well be a female figure. Scholars have noted that its attributes align more closely with representations of the divine feminine, particularly the concept of the ‘divine hag’ or crone goddess associated with Badhbh and the land of Ireland itself.

Seamus Heaney and the January God

It was the Nobel Prize-winning poet Seamus Heaney who gave the Boa Island statue its most enduring literary identity. His poem January God, inspired by the figure, captures the unsettling magnetism of the site with a rawness that no academic description manages:

Then I found a two faced stone
 On burial ground,
 God-eyed, sex-mouthed, its brain
 A watery wound.
 
 In the wet gap of the year,
 Daubed with fresh lake mud,
 I faltered near his power —
 January God.

   — Seamus Heaney, from Death of a Naturalist (1966)

It was Heaney’s poem that cemented the name ‘Janus Stone’ in popular usage, even though scholars are clear that the Roman god Janus has no connection to this figure. Heaney, who grew up in County Derry, understood the Celtic world through language and landscape. His poem treats the figure not as a museum piece but as a living force, something that still has power over those who come near it.

Caldragh Cemetery: A Thin Place in Fermanagh

In Celtic spirituality, a ‘thin place’ is a location where the boundary between the physical and spiritual world is believed to be extraordinarily narrow. Caldragh Cemetery is consistently described as one of these places, and I can tell you from personal experience that the description is apt. The moment you step through the cattle gate and onto that uneven ground, something shifts. The lough is invisible, the farm fields recede, and the two figures are simply there, looking at you the way they have looked at everyone who has ever come.

As Thin Places Tours describes it, there is a remarkable presence in the untidy cemetery, one that draws people even though it appears in almost no mainstream guidebooks. The lumpy ground with its rough marker stones from 20 to 40 centimetres high, many of the graves long forgotten, adds to the sense of accumulated time.

For those attuned to earth energies, practitioners of Reiki and similar disciplines have reported that the Janus Figure produces an anti-clockwise energy while the Lustymore Man pulls in a clockwise direction. Whether or not you subscribe to such things, the atmospheric quality of Caldragh Cemetery is not a matter of imagination. It is real and it is unlike almost anywhere else in Ireland.

How to Get to Boa Island and Caldragh Cemetery: Step-by-Step Directions

Entry: Free. Open year-round, 24 hours. No visitor centre, no staff on site.

Car essential: There is no public transport to Boa Island. A hire car is required.

1. From Enniskillen town, take the A32 north towards Kesh.
2. At the junction, turn left onto the B82 towards Kesh. This road takes you across the bridge onto Boa Island.
3. Drive approximately 2 km along the island road (the A47 which crosses the island end to end).
4. Watch carefully on the left for a very small brown sign indicating Caldragh Cemetery. It is easy to miss and most people do on their first visit. If you reach the bridge at the far end of the island, you have gone too far.
5. Turn left down what appears to be a farm track. Follow it to the end, passing fields on either side.
6. You will reach a small layby on the left with space for two or three cars and an iron cattle gate. A small sign on the gate reads Caldragh Cemetery.

From Kesh village the drive is roughly 10 minutes west. From Belfast allow around 2 hours and from Dublin around 3 hours. You can find Caldragh Cemetery on Google Maps here.

Parking at Caldragh Cemetery

There is a small, unpaved layby beside the cattle gate with room for two or three vehicles at most. On busy summer weekends this can be a genuine challenge. If you arrive and the layby is taken, pull safely onto the grass verge of the farm track and walk back, as it is only a short distance. There are no marked disabled parking bays, though the layby is flat.

The path from the gate to the figures crosses uneven, often boggy ground. Visitors with limited mobility will find it easier in dry conditions. The approach is not wheelchair accessible in the standard sense, though many visitors with walking aids do manage the terrain. In wet weather wellies are advisable for everyone.

Hidden Gems on and Around Boa Island

Most visitors to Boa Island see only Caldragh Cemetery and leave. If you have time, there are things worth knowing that do not appear in most guides.

The Short Walk Beyond the Cemetery

The AllTrails route at Boa Island Figures describes a 1.5-mile out-and-back trail that begins at the cemetery car park, continues through the graveyard, and then west along a path toward the road and back. The walk takes between 30 minutes and an hour and is rated easy. It is a genuinely lovely walk through a landscape that feels untouched, with the lough glinting through the trees.

Castle Caldwell and the Fiddler’s Stone

At the western end of Boa Island, just before the bridge back to the mainland, is the ruin of Castle Caldwell, a 17th-century fortified house surrounded by mature woodland. The surrounding land is now an RSPB nature reserve and one of the most important breeding sites for common scoter ducks in Ireland. On the gateposts you will find the remarkable Fiddler’s Stone, an 18th-century sandstone fiddle carved in memory of Denis McCabe, a fiddler who drowned here in 1770 after falling from the estate’s pleasure barge. The inscription reads, in part, that he was a musician who lost his life through drink and would have been wiser to have stuck to his fiddle. This is a local secret that most visitors never find.

White Island: Stone Figures Across the Water

Often mentioned in the same breath as the Boa Island figures, White Island sits further south in Lower Lough Erne near Castle Archdale. It contains a ruined 12th-century church in which eight extraordinary stone figures stand in a row. Like the Boa Island statues, their exact meaning and date are debated. They are accessible by a short ferry crossing from Castle Archdale Marina and represent a fitting companion visit to Caldragh Cemetery. The combination of the two island figure sites in one day is highly recommended.

Other Lough Erne Islands Worth Visiting

Devenish Island

Devenish Island is the most visited and most accessible of the Lough Erne island sites. Founded in the 6th century by Saint Molaise, it holds the best-preserved round tower in Ireland, the ruins of an Augustinian abbey, ancient carved crosses, and a small museum. Erne Tours operate the MV Kestrel from the Round O wharf in Enniskillen, with guided tours that include commentary both on the water and on the island. The journey takes around 1 hour 45 minutes return, and visitors have time to explore the site independently.

Getting there: Devenish is only accessible by water. No car is needed. Erne Water Taxi also operates private and small-group departures from Enniskillen. Ferry from Trory jetty in July and August costs approximately GBP5 return for adults, GBP4 for children and concessions.

Accessibility: The MV Kestrel can accommodate visitors with limited mobility, though there is no direct wheelchair access onto the boat. Steps on and off the vessel require assistance from crew members, who are happy to help. Wheelchairs can be brought on board. Hard-topped paths are available around parts of the island ruins. Dogs are welcome on a lead.

Kids: Children enjoy the round tower climb (exterior viewing only), the wildlife on the water, and the atmospheric ruins. The guided commentary on Erne Tours boats keeps younger visitors engaged.

Lusty Beg Island

Lusty Beg Island is a small private island near Boa Island that operates as a resort and leisure destination. It is connected to the mainland by a short ferry crossing. The island offers self-catering accommodation, a restaurant, fishing, and water activities. It makes a peaceful base for those who want to explore the northern end of the lough, including Boa Island itself, at their own pace.

Game of Thrones Connections in County Fermanagh

While the Boa Island Janus Head itself has no direct Game of Thrones filming connection, County Fermanagh is home to one of the key locations from the series. Pollnagollum Cave in the Marble Arch Caves Global Geopark served as the Brotherhood Without Banners hideout known as Hollow Hill in the Riverlands, featured in Season 3. The cave is reached by following the Belmore Forest walk to a viewing point above a spectacular waterfall.

In nearby Enniskillen, Blakes of the Hollow pub hosts one of the famous Game of Thrones Journey of Doors, ten intricately carved wooden doors made from the fallen trees of the Dark Hedges after Storm Gertrude. Each door depicts scenes from Season 6 and is located near an actual filming location. The Enniskillen door connects thematically to the Fermanagh filming at Pollnagollum Cave.

For a comprehensive Game of Thrones experience in Northern Ireland, the Game of Thrones Studio Tour at Linen Mills in Banbridge, County Down, is the official behind-the-scenes experience, with original sets, props, and costumes.

Where to Eat Near Boa Island: From Cafes to Fine Dining

There are no cafes, pubs, or restaurants on Boa Island itself. Kesh is the nearest village and has a shop and a pub. Enniskillen, about 30 minutes south, offers the full range of dining options.

Fine Dining and Hotel Restaurants

Lough Erne Resort near Enniskillen offers three dining venues including the Catalina Restaurant, which holds 3 AA Rosettes and serves modern Irish cuisine using local, seasonal ingredients. The Loughside Bar and Grill offers a more informal option with stunning lake views. The resort has full disabled access and on-site parking. This is where the G8 Summit was held in 2013.

Killyhevlin Lakeside Hotel in Enniskillen is a four-star hotel on the shores of Lough Erne with a well-regarded restaurant, spa, and leisure facilities. It is one kilometre from the town centre with ample parking and accessible facilities.

Casual Dining and Pubs

Blakes of the Hollow on Church Street in Enniskillen is one of the most famous Victorian pubs in Ireland, trading since the late 19th century. It serves pub food and is famous for its traditional interior and Game of Thrones door. Parking is available in Enniskillen town centre nearby. Experience refined dining in the heart of Enniskillen at 28@ The Hollow, a gothic space at Blakes where award-winning chef Glenn Wheeler brings modern Irish cuisine to one of Ireland’s most historic settings.

For pizza, Angie’s New Haven APizza in Enniskillen serves Neapolitan-style pizza with a signature charred crust. Franco’s Restaurant in Enniskillen is a reliable choice for steaks, ribs, and seafood. For coffee and a traybake, the traditional Ulster treat, Kove Restaurant on the shores of Lough Erne offers a relaxed lakeside atmosphere.

For a full list of dining options in the area, Fermanagh Lakelands maintains a current directory of restaurants, cafes, and bars.

Where to Stay Near Boa Island: Accommodation for Every Budget

Luxury

Lough Erne Resort (5-star, Enniskillen) is the premier option in the region, set on a 600-acre peninsula between Castle Hume Lough and Lower Lough Erne. It has 120 rooms and suites, two championship golf courses including the Faldo Course, an authentic Thai Spa with infinity pool, and three dining venues. Full disabled access and extensive parking. Rooms from approximately GBP200 per night.

Four-Star Hotels

Killyhevlin Lakeside Hotel (4-star, Enniskillen) sits on the shores of Lough Erne one kilometre from Enniskillen. It offers 70 bedrooms, a restaurant, spa, and swimming pool, with lake views. Full disabled access, pool, and parking. Manor House Country Hotel on the shores of Lough Erne combines country-house elegance with modern facilities and lake access. Parking on site.

Unique Stays and Self-Catering

LakEscape Cabins, Boa Island offer luxury lakeside cabins directly on Boa Island, with private hot tubs, king-size beds with Egyptian cotton, cinema projectors, and BBQ with lake views. For families or groups wanting complete immersion in the landscape, these are exceptional.

Rushin Caravan Park near Boa Island comes consistently recommended for motorhome and caravan travellers. The scenery is described by guests as breathtaking and the facilities, including kitchen, showers, and laundry, are rated excellent. Drumhoney Holiday Park near the area also offers camping pods suitable for families.

Budget and Mid-Range

Belmore Court and Motel in central Enniskillen offers spacious, well-equipped rooms with mini kitchens, an excellent breakfast buffet, and ample parking. It is centrally located and provides some of the most convenient access to Devenish Island tours. The Westville Hotel is a stylish boutique option five minutes from Enniskillen town centre with accessible rooms, parking, and an on-site bar and restaurant.

Visiting Boa Island with Children

The Boa Island figures are genuinely compelling for children with an interest in history, mythology, or anything a little bit mysterious. The walk to the cemetery along the farm lane is short enough for small legs, and the graveyard itself has the kind of atmosphere that fires the imagination without being frightening. The offering coins left in the groove at the top of the Dreenan Figure always provoke questions.

For a full family day in Fermanagh, consider combining the Boa Island visit with a Devenish Island boat trip in the afternoon, which children tend to find exciting both for the boat journey and for the round tower. Marble Arch Caves, a short drive south, is one of Ireland’s best show caves and a superb family attraction in any weather.

The Lough Erne Resort runs a dedicated programme called Cygnets for younger guests aged 0 to 11, and several of the caravan parks and camping pods around the lough offer activities specifically designed for families.

A Personal Note: Why You Should Not Skip This

I have a degree in Anthropology and have spent decades travelling to sacred and ancient sites across Europe. I am not given to hyperbole about places. Caldragh Cemetery is, in my honest assessment, one of the genuinely extraordinary places in Ireland. It is not polished. It is not signposted impressively. There is no gift shop. What there is, standing in a field in the rain if your timing is typical of Irish summers, is an ancient carved stone figure that has been watched over the same stretch of water since before the Normans, before the Vikings, before Christianity arrived on this island.

The first time I brought visitors here, an American couple who had come specifically for the archaeology, the woman stood in front of the Dreenan Figure for several minutes without speaking. Then she said quietly that she had not expected it to look back. I knew exactly what she meant.

Boa Island Janus Head: Essential Visitor Information

Location: Caldragh Cemetery, Dreenan Townland, Boa Island, County Fermanagh, Northern Ireland BT93 8AE

Admission: Free. Open year-round, no restricted hours.

Parking: Small unpaved layby beside cattle gate. Space for 2-3 cars. No disabled bays. No facilities on site.

Accessibility: Uneven boggy ground. Not wheelchair accessible. Easier in dry conditions.

Transport: No public transport. Hire car essential. Nearest village: Kesh (10 min). Nearest town: Enniskillen (30 min).

Best time to visit: Weekday mornings in spring or autumn for solitude. Avoid peak summer weekends if parking is a concern.

Frequently Asked Questions: Boa Island Janus Head

Q: Is the Boa Island Janus Head really from the Iron Age?

A: The honest answer is that nobody knows for certain. Most scholars accept an Iron Age or early medieval date of approximately 400 to 800 AD, with the interlace decoration suggesting possible Insular art influence from the early Christian period. Some researchers favour an older pre-Christian origin based on the crude carving style. The dating question remains genuinely open among archaeologists.

Q: How much does it cost to visit Boa Island and Caldragh Cemetery?

A: Entry to Caldragh Cemetery is completely free. The site has no admission charge, no visitor centre, and no facilities. It is open at all times, year-round. Your only costs will be travel and any accommodation or meals in the area.

Q: Can I visit Boa Island without a car?

A: Not practically. There is no bus service to Boa Island, and no tour operators run regular group trips to Caldragh Cemetery. A hire car is essential. Cars can be rented in Belfast, Dublin, Enniskillen, or Derry. The drive from Enniskillen takes approximately 30 minutes.

Q: Is Boa Island wheelchair accessible?

A: Caldragh Cemetery itself is not wheelchair accessible. The approach from the parking layby to the figures crosses uneven, often boggy ground with no hard path. Visitors who use wheelchairs will find the terrain very difficult. Those with walking aids may manage in dry weather conditions. There is no accessible parking designated on site. If accessibility is a concern, Devenish Island via Erne Tours boat offers more assistance for visitors with limited mobility, and the Fermanagh Lakelands tourism website lists accessible attractions across the county.

Q: What is the difference between the Janus Head and the Lustymore Man?

A: The Janus Head, or Dreenan Figure, is the larger of the two statues in Caldragh Cemetery. It is double-sided, with two complete faces carved back to back. The Lustymore Man is the smaller figure, found on Lustymore Island and moved to Caldragh Cemetery in 1939. It is plainer, more weathered, and appears to have only one eye fully carved. Both are considered to represent pagan deities of some kind, though their precise identities and the purposes they served remain unknown.

Q: Did Game of Thrones film on Boa Island?

A: No. Game of Thrones did not film on Boa Island itself. However, County Fermanagh has a significant Game of Thrones connection through Pollnagollum Cave in the Marble Arch Caves Geopark, which appeared as the Brotherhood Without Banners hideout in Season 3. Blakes of the Hollow pub in Enniskillen, about 30 minutes from Boa Island, hosts one of the famous Journey of Doors carved from the fallen Dark Hedges trees.

Q: Is the Stairway to Heaven near Boa Island, and what else can I combine with my visit?

A: The Stairway to Heaven, properly known as the Cuilcagh Boardwalk Trail, is located near the Marble Arch Caves, about 12 miles south of Enniskillen. Boa Island sits roughly 30 minutes north of Enniskillen, so the two sites are not next to each other, but they can be combined into one full day if you base yourself in Enniskillen. The boardwalk hike itself takes 2 to 5 hours round trip and involves a steep 450-step climb, so plan to do it earlier in the day before visiting the quieter, shorter stop at Caldragh Cemetery on Boa Island. Other sites worth combining with Boa Island on the same trip include Devenish Island, White Island, Castle Caldwell, and Marble Arch Caves itself, all within Fermanagh’s compact geography.

Q: Are there other stone figures like these elsewhere in Ireland?

A: Yes. White Island, accessible by ferry from Castle Archdale Marina on Lower Lough Erne, has eight carved stone figures in a ruined church. The Tandragee Man in Armagh Cathedral is another comparable Iron Age carved figure. The Carndonagh Cross in Donegal has stylistic similarities noted by the same scholar, Dorothy Lowry-Corry, who first brought the Boa Island figures to academic attention.

Why the Boa Island Janus Head Belongs on Your Ireland Itinerary

The Boa Island Janus Head is free, accessible year-round, and requires nothing more than a car and the willingness to follow a small brown sign down a farm track. In exchange, it offers something that most of Ireland’s busier heritage attractions cannot: complete solitude in the presence of one of the most genuinely mysterious carved stone monuments in Europe.

You will almost certainly have Caldragh Cemetery entirely to yourself. The two figures, the Dreenan Figure and the Lustymore Man, will be there when you arrive, as they have been for over a thousand years, watching the same lough, weathered by the same rain. That is, when you think about it, rather remarkable.

First published: August 18, 2025   Updated: June 27, 2026

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